Malcom Smith Racing

It seems like we’ve been waiting forever for electric cars to come along, but after more false starts than you’ll see at the London Olympics this year, it looks like the electric car is finally here to stay.

Now, we need to start with some boring terminology: A true electric car (EV, for Electric Vehicle) has no petrol engine as backup, so you are reliant on the batteries having enough charge to get you to where you need to go. The Nissan Leaf is the best-known (and best) electric car currently on sale.

A regular hybrid uses an electric motor and/or a petrol motor, depending on the circumstances. You don’t plug it into a wall socket as the batteries charge while you are driving. A typical journey, even a short one, will use both electric and petrol power to drive the wheels. The Toyota Prius is the most popular and best-known hybrid on sale around the world.

A plug-in hybrid, “range-extending” electric car, is technically more of a fancy hybrid than a true EV although it drives more like an EV than a regular hybrid. In practice it might be a huge difference or none at all, depending on how you use the car. A range-extender, or plug-in hybrid as it’s more commonly known, has a petrol engine which can be used to power the electric motor once the batteries have drained, but the petrol engine does not directly drive the wheels*. The Vauxhall Ampera/Chevrolet Volt twins are the leading example of this type of car, and they claim an urban fuel consumption of 300mpg (yep, that’s three hundred. Not a typo!)

A car running on an electric motor is usually very quiet (eerie silence or a distant hum instead of a clearly audible petrol engine) and smooth (no vibrations from engine or gearbox). The response from the car away from rest is both immediate and powerful, as electric motors generate huge amounts of torque instantly. They’re quiet from the outside to, to such an extent that the EU is considering making audible warnings compulsory in the future as pedestrians simply won’t hear an electric car coming.

In terms of exciting handling, electric cars are usually not brilliant, it must be said. They tend to be very heavy and usually run tyres & wheels more beneficial for economy than handling. But as a commuter vehicle around town, they are zippy and efficient. Plus they generate less noise, heat and pollution into the street so a traffic jam of Nissan Leafs in the city would be a lot more pleasant for passing pedestrians.

The batteries on a typical electric car only give it enough range for a few miles (although a true EV will have a bigger battery pack as it doesn’t have to fit a petrol engine & fuel tank as well), so the cars use various means to charge the battery while driving. Usually this involves converting kinetic energy from coasting and braking to electric energy to store in the batteries. The Fisker Karma even has solar cells in its roof to charge the batteries as well.

However, a longer journey will inevitably mean that the batteries are drained. In a fully electric car that means you have to stop and charge the batteries, so hopefully you parked near a power socket somewhere and have several hours to find something else to do. In a hybrid, the petrol engine will start up to provide the power. In a regular hybrid like a Prius, the car effectively becomes an ordinary petrol car, albeit with a fairly underpowered engine pushing a heavy car around so it’s not swift. In a ‘range extender’ like the Ampera/Volt, the petrol engine provides energy to the electric motor to drive the wheels, which is more efficient in both performance and economy. Depending on how you’re driving, any spare energy from the petrol engine can be used to charge up the batteries again, so the car may switch back to electric power once charging is complete.

So what does this mean in the real world?

Well, how much of the following driving do you do? We’re assuming here that the batteries are fully charged when you set off.

Short trips (<50 miles between charges). These sort of journeys are ideal for electric cars and plug-in hybrids, as the batteries will cope with the whole journey and also get some charge while you drive. A regular hybrid will still need to use the petrol engine, although how much depends on how you drive it and how much charging it is able to get along the way. Medium trips (50-100 miles between charges). These are the sorts of trips that give EV drivers plenty of stress, as the traffic conditions may mean you run out of juice before you make it to your charging point. A plug-in hybrid or regular hybrid will be fine because they can call on the petrol engine. In a regular hybrid, this means the car will be petrol powered for most of the journey. In a plug-in hybrid, it will be mainly electric with the petrol engine kicking in to top up the batteries if needed late in the journey. Longer trips (100+ miles between charges) Not feasible in a fully-electric car, as you will almost certainly run out of electricity before you get there. The regular hybrid is basically a petrol car for almost the whole journey and the plug-in hybrid is majority electric but supplemented by petrol in a far more efficient way than a regular hybrid. The pros and cons: Let's summarise the three types of electrically-powered cars: Regular hybrid (eg - Toyota Prius) PROS: cheaper, no charging required, no range anxiety, regular petrol engine makes it feel like a regular petrol car CONS: only very short journeys (a few miles at best) will be fully electric, small battery pack and weak petrol engine means relatively poor performance compared to a normal petrol car or a fully electric car, poor economy when driven hard (like most Prius minicabs in London...), not very spacious for passengers and luggage due to carrying petrol and electric powertrains in one car Fully electric car (EV) (eg - Nissan Leaf) PROS: powerful electric motor gives much better performance than a regular hybrid, larger battery pack means longer electric running, no petrol engine reduces weight and frees up a lot of space, £5000 government rebate, electricity is cheaper and usually less polluting than petrol, privileged parking spaces in certain public places CONS: Still expensive despite rebate, minimal range capability due to lack of petrol engine backup, resulting range anxiety is a real issue for drivers, question marks over battery life, technology advances will make next generation massively better and hurt resale value, some driving adaptation required, lengthy recharging required after even a moderate drive Plug-in Hybrid / range-extender (eg - Vauxhall Ampera) PROS: powerful electric motor and backup petrol engine give best combination of performance and range, most journeys will be fully electric which is cheaper than petrol, no range anxiety, privileged parking spaces in certain public places CONS: Very expensive despite rebate, question marks over battery life and resale value, wall socket charging is still slow, lack of space and very heavy due to having petrol engine and fuel tank as well as electric motor and batteries. Electric Car Economics - is it all worth it? For most people, an electric vehicle is difficult to justify on pure hard-headed economics. Even with a £5,000 rebate from the government, an electric car is expensive. A Nissan Leaf starts at £31,000, so after the government gives you £5K you have spent £26K on a car which would be probably worth about £15K if it had a normal petrol engine. That could conceivably buy you a decade's worth of fuel! And there are still question marks hovering over the long-term reliability of batteries and resale value, which may bite you hard somewhere down the line Electric Cars and the Environment Buying a hybrid or electric car because you think you're helping the environment may not be helping that cause as much as you think, if at all. Producing car batteries is a dirty and complicated process, and the net result is that there is a significantly higher environmental impact in building an electric or hybrid car than building a regular petrol or diesel car. So you're starting behind the environmental eight-ball before you've even driven you new green car. Beware of "zero emissions" claims about electric vehicles, because most electricity still comes from fossil fuel sources (like gas or coal) rather than renewable sources, so you are still polluting the atmosphere when you drive, albeit not as much and the effects are not as noticeable to you. If you have your own solar panels or wind farm to power your car, this is much more environmentally friendly. Range anxiety The biggest electric car turn-off for car buyers (other than the high purchase price) is the joint problem of very limited range and very slow recharging. In a petrol or diesel car, you can drive for a few hundred miles, pull into a petrol station and five minutes later you are ready to drive for another few hundred miles. In an electric car, you drive for 50-100 miles, then have to stop and charge it for several hours to drive another 50-100 miles. If you only take short journeys and can keep the car plugged in whenever it stops (usually at home or work), this may never be a problem. But you can't expect to jump in the car and drive a couple of hundred miles, or get away with forgetting to plug the car in overnight after a journey. You have to be much more disciplined in terms of planning your driving, and allow for recharging. Away from home this is still a big problem as there are relatively few power sockets available in public parking areas for you to use. A plug-in hybrid like the Vauxhall Ampera/Chevrolet Volt gets around the range anxiety problem, as does a normal hybrid like a Toyota Prius, but you are carting a petrol engine (and fuel) around all the time which you may not need, adding hundreds of kilos of weight and taking up lots of space, so it's a compromise. So as you can see from all of the above, it's not at all straightforward. You need to carefully consider what sort of driving you will be doing and what you need your car to be able to do. *there is a complicated technical argument about whether the Ampera/Volt's petrol engine directly drives the wheels under certain circumstances, but it's really boring and doesn't really make any difference to how the car drives. Stuart Masson is founder and owner of The Car Expert, a London-based independent and impartial car buying agency for anyone looking to buy a new or used car. Originally from Australia, Stuart has had a passion for cars and the automotive industry for nearly thirty years, and has spent the last seven years working in the automotive retail industry, both in Australia and in London.

Stuart has combined his extensive knowledge of all things car-related with his own experience of selling cars and delivering high levels of customer satisfaction to bring a unique and personal car buying agency to London. The Car Expert offers specific and tailored advice for anyone looking for a new or used car in London.

His mission is to help people find the best car to suit them, at the best possible price. Visit his website at http://www.TheCarExpert.co.uk

Article Source: https://EzineArticles.com/expert/Stuart_Masson/1216037

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I work in the auto industry and a question i am asked over and over by friends and family is:

“Whats the best way to go about finding good used cars?”

Many of us chose to buy used cars. It can make a lot of sense. As you know new cars can lose up to 30% of their value in the first 2 years. If you end up needing to sell that new car too soon you will have wasted all that money.

The only problem is that buying used cars can be a mine field of errors. You need to know your stuff. You also need sharp wits and to understand the pitfalls. The truth is that we are not all mechanics and we don’t all have the eye for knowing the bad from the good used car.

Today I will share some steps and tricks that will improve the chances of you making a sound choice. There is a lot to know about used cars, but with the following ideas, you will be well on your way.

Why Buy Good Used Cars?

Take advantage of the depreciation. When you buy a used car, that is a few years old, you have saved yourself the 20%-30% value loss on that car. Someone else has paid that for you. You have reduced the risk of burring yourself in that car financially. If for some reason you need to sell the car again sooner then planned, you will be in a far better position.

Take your pick! When you buy used, there are many different things that can effect price. You will have way more options in terms of model, brand, age, mileage. You have the option of buying a car that you normally could not afford if it was brand new off the car lot. You can really set any budget and shop with in that budget. You could literally spend $2,000 or $200,000 on a used car. Every city is ripe with a vast selection of used cars in good condition.

Something new in the used car department each day. The used car market is always changing. It means that there are always different cars to find and choose from. Most Victoria dealers will have fresh inventory each month. Often you can find the new inventory right at home with your computer. There are also tonnes of private sales listed each day.

Should You Buy Used Cars Privately Or From A Dealer?

There are advantages in choosing to work with a dealer, as well as a private owner.

Private sale used car advantages:

You can sometimes find great deals in the private sale listing. With some patience and time, online you can find the good deals. Many sellers online are doing it because they are under the gun and need the cash fast.

Often, private owners are not as aggressive when it comes to talking about numbers and the process. Private owners will allow you to take things at your own pace. Most car salesmen will try and move you to make a choice as soon as they can. This unneeded pressure can be avoided by finding a reliable salesmen or staying in the private market.

Dealer Advantages:

You can save a ton of time if you go to a Used Car Dealer. They will have way more selection in one place. As much as we don’t like the sales process, one thing it does is save time. The key is finding a reliable sales person. One who actually cares about you. Talking to someone about what kind of car you need, then driving, and then talking about numbers all in one day means you can rule a car in or out with in a few hours.

Used car dealer in many areas must declare auto Dec’s. They will have documents such as a Car Proof or Car Fax and safety inspections on hand. These are valuable documents that many private sellers overlook. They are hard proof of a vehicles history.

Private Used Car Disadvantage

Most people sell a car in private so they can get as much for it as possible. If they didn’t care about getting the most they could then they would have sold it to a dealer. Most people will shop privately because they feel they can get a better deal then if they went to a dealer. In most cases, private car shoppers and private car sellers, are further apart on price then car dealers and car shoppers. Often private sellers are far more emotionally attached to their car then dealer is and have a inflated idea of its value.

Dealer Disadvantage

Very often dealers will have extra costs attached to the sale of a used car. They will also want you to purchase extra warranties and products. Many of these products may not suit your life or needs. Be mindful of what you are signing for. Don’t be afraid to ask early what the extra fees will be and what they are for. Many of the products are of use in curtain situations. Once you have listened to and understood what the extras are, make a rational choice as to whether you need them or not.

How to pick the right car.

Car Proof or Car Fax! Do not buy a used ca, private or at a dealer, unless you have read the Car Proof/Car Fax. The Car Proof, is a history report that will tell you if the car has been repaired due to collisions. It will also let you know if it was an x-rental, x-lease or has been registered out of the province. It will also give an overview of some of the major maintenance work and were it was done. This document is a must for buying used vehicles. Most dealers will have one available.

If you are shopping privately and the owner does not have one. Tell the owner that you won’t buy unless a car proof is provided.

1. Look under the car. Get down and a little dirty. Check under the vehicle for rust. Rust is a killer. Look at the shocks, and in the engine compartment as well.
2. Open up the hood. Most used car dealers will have cleaned the engine very well. There are still signs you can find. Look for leeks, rust, and wear and tear. Start the car with the hood open. When the engine is cold it will reveal the most. Get out again and look at the engine while it is running. Listen for squeaks, whines, ticking and other odd sounds.
3. Inspect the inside well. Use your nose. Sniff and sniff some more. Often strong perfumes, and fresheners will be used if the car had mold, dogs, and smokers.
4. Lift the floor mats and check for moisture. Also check the spare tire compartment. Again, look for rust and moisture in these spots.
5. Take it for a drive. Before you get going to fast, put the car in neutral and give it some gas. Keep an eye on the mirrors and what comes out the back. You don’t want to see big plumes of smoke.
6. The drive should cover different roads. Highways, back roads, some bumps as well. When its safe, let go of the wheel on a straight road. See if the steering is aligned. Over bumps, listen for squeaking and other noises.
7. When you get back, park over a clean section of the lot/driveway. Then turn the car off. This is when you will look over some of the paper work. After about 15 minutes go back to the car and look under the engine. See if there are any wet marks on the driveway or lot. After the car has been running any leaks will start to drip. If they do. Don’t buy the car.

At this point you should know if the car is in the running or not. Most reputable Car Dealers will have done an inspection of the car. You should have access to the report. Look over it and see if everything checks out. If its a private sale and you like the car, now would be a good time to schedule a third party inspection.

One final note, TRUST YOUR GUT!. If you have done the steps listed you should have a solid idea weather the car you are looking at is in good running shape.

Don’t be afraid to drag a friend along. Someone you know will be very objective about the whole thing. They can give some feed back and their opinion. Let them know that all you want is their impression of the car, not whether you should buy it or not.

There are tonnes of other steps, tricks and tips that I did not cover. If you have any ideas to add, please do in the comment section. Any thing you could add so save someone from buying the dreaded lemon will help.

I hope this instill your confidence to get out there and start looking for that good used car.

Find More Great Tips on Buying New or Used Cars

http://goo.gl/zm2qL

Mish Peden shares his knowledge from with in the Auto Industry!

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